Decorated pegs

Decorated pegs DEFAULT
 
Woodturning a Peg Decorated Bowl
By Rick Morris
Duluth, GA
Figure 1 - The finished bowl

I recently made a bowl for a friend who had given me some cherry logs, and I decided to make it a little more special by using wooden pegs to decorate it. I have made a number of peg-decorated bowls over the years, and find it really adds some interest to an otherwise plain wood bowl.

For this article, I'm skipping the initial turning of the bowl, as the focus is really on the peg decoration. I'm starting with the bowl blank after it has been rough-turned and dried.

Figure 2 - The rough-turned bowl blank

The first step is to bring the bowl back into round. As it dried out, it warped. Surprisingly, it did not warp a great deal, but it did shrink about 1/4" across the grain, not much for a 13" diameter bowl.

Figure 3 - Turning the outside of the dried blank down to round…

Figure 4 - …and turning the inside down to round

With the bowl back in round, my next step is to turn the interior to a thickness of 1/2" to 3/8". I don't want to thin it down too much, because I have to tap the pegs in place, and I don't want to crack the bowl doing that.

Figure 5 - Turning the bowl to a thickness of about 3/8"

I don't feel like turning a funnel today (which I'm somewhat prone to do), so I stop to check the bottom thickness. This homemade bottom-thickness jig is easily made from some scraps of wood and a threaded rod. After adjusting the jig for the particular chuck and jaws I'm using, the bottom thickness is reflected in the gap between the two wood pieces on the lathe bed.

Figure 6 - Turning the bowl to a thickness of about 3/8"

The bottom is the right thickness, so I stop working on it, and lightly use a scraper to refine the sides of the bowl.

Figure 7 - Cleaning up the inside walls

The turning is complete, at least for the moment. I'm going to put pegs into the interior of the bowl, in a spiral pattern. My first step is to draw a circle in the middle to start the pattern.

Figure 8 - Starting the peg pattern with a center circle

Then I draw another circle near the rim. This sets the end point of the spiral arm.

Figure 9 - A circle near the rim will be the outer point of the spiral

Now it's back to the workbench. I need to make a spiral arm pattern on some cardboard. I start with a diameter the same as that of the outer line inside the bowl. I also draw a center circle the size of that in the bowl.

Figure 10 - I'm using a cardboard box to make the pattern

I freehand a spiraling line from the inner circle to the outer circle.

Figure 11 - The spiral from the center circle to the outer
will be the pattern

Now I set my dividers so that I'll have about 5/8" between peg points on the spiral, and mark them out, starting at the inner circle.

Figure 12 - Each point will be the center of a hole for the peg

To finish my pattern, I cut along the spiral I just drew, and then cut that piece of cardboard free of the cardboard sheet.

Figure 13 - The spiral is along the bottom of the cut piece

To mark the positions where I will use the cardboard template, I use an indexing plate mounted behind my chuck.

Figure 14 - This indexing wheel will go down as far as 5 degrees

I mark six starting points around the inner circle – a mark every 60 degrees.

Figure 15 - I mark out start points for six spiral arms

Now I position the pattern inside the bowl, with the innermost point on the inside circle and the outermost point falling on the outer circle.

Figure 16 - Setting the pattern, from the inner circle to the outer circle

While holding the pattern firmly in place, I mark off the peg points from the pattern.

Figure 17 - Each mark on the bowl will get a hole

Figure 18 - The pattern is drawn six times around the bowl

And then I carefully count the number of spirals. It may sound silly, but I've made silly counting mistakes before!

Figure 19 - I count the spiral to ensure I've done it right

Now it's back to the workbench to drill a herd of holes in the bowl. I prefer 5/16" diameter pegs. I use a Forstner Bit to drill the holes because it leaves a much cleaner outer rim of the hole. A standard twist bit usually leaves a ragged rim, and that will show when the bowl is finished.

Figure 20 - A 5/16" Forstner Bit

The drilling commences! The depth I drill is 1/4". Obviously, I can't go too deep, or I'd go all the way through the sidewall of the bowl (I only want the pegs to show on the bowl's interior).

Figure 21 - Drilling the first hole, 1/4" deep on the previously
marked points…

Figure 22 - ...and drilling the last hole

All of these holes need pegs. I make my pegs with a Plug Cutter. Dowel rods from the hardware store are generally not a good fit for their stated size and are frequently warped in cross-section. I'm using a 5/16" plug cutter (makes sense, right? A 5/16" plug cutter to match a 5/16" hole).

The type of plug cutter I use is one with four “legs" on it. I've found this type cuts better than the types with a circular cross-section. More importantly, it cuts the plug with a very slight taper. Tapered pegs are much easier to put into the holes drilled in the bowl bottom.

Figure 23 - A 5/16" plug cutter

I save my wood scraps just for the purpose of making pegs. From my scrap bin, I pull out several flat pieces of maple. Its light color will show up nicely against the cherry bowl.

Figure 24 - Making pegged bowls is a good reason to save scraps

Before I start cutting pegs at the drill press, I darken the upper surface of the wood with a marker. The upper surface will have a slightly smaller diameter than the lower end of the cut peg, because the plug cutter is slightly tapered. It's a very slight difference in diameter, hard to see with the naked eye, so marking the small end makes it easy to find.

I want the smaller end to go into the hole, not the larger end. That ensures a snug fit at the visible end of the peg.

Figure 25 - Marking the peg blank to make it easy to identify the
small end of the peg after it's cut

The peg-cutting goes fairly quickly, which is good, because I've got a lot of pegs to cut. I don't cut all the way through the maple piece. I could do that, of course, but that takes more time, as each peg then has to be pried out of the plug cutter.

Figure 26 - The pegs are cut on the drill press

I need 78 pegs for this bowl. In the excitement of the moment, I've cut slightly over a hundred. This allows for breakage when prying the pegs out of the wood, for dropping some on the floor and losing them, for having some break during insertion and/or when trimming them down, and, of course, for snacking. I use a screwdriver to pry each peg free from the wood.

Figure 27 - A screwdriver is used to pry the pegs free

I use a small tack hammer and regular woodworking glue to put the pegs in the bowl. I don't use CA glue because sometimes the pegs go sideways when tapping them in, and I have to pull them out with pliers. So a slow-setting glue is preferable.

Figure 28 - Woodworking glue is best for pegging

I've tried various methods for getting the glue into the holes. Putting in too much glue will keep the peg from going it. I take a small acid brush and trim some bristles off each side, leaving a smaller tip. The glue needs to be brushed up against the sides of the hole, as well as the bottom.

Figure 29 - Each hole has to have glue

Tapping the peg in must be done somewhat gently, not only to put less stress on the bowl, but because a strong tap might push the peg in sideways, which is a nuisance. If the peg does go in sideways and get “hung" partially out of the hole, then I'll pull it out with pliers, and get a fresh peg.

Figure 30 - The peg is carefully tapped into the hole

Working on the inside of a bowl, rather than the outside, presents a challenge in getting the hammer in position. In this case, I found that using a piece of wood as a “hammer extension" worked well.

Figure 31 - Tapping when the hammer isn't able to get to the peg easily

Figure 32 - The last peg is tapped in place

I mount the bowl back on the lathe. I need to cut the pegs flush with the surface of the bowl. I normally use a gouge or scraper for this, making cuts as delicately as possible. Even so, I'll usually have one or two pegs break off below the surface of the bowl. Then I have to drill the hole out again, and put in a new peg.

Figure 33 - A gouge can be used to trim the pegs flush...

Figure 34 - ...or a scraper can be used

For this bowl, I decided to be wild and crazy, and I used my sanding drill, with a 150-grit disc.

Figure 35 - I level the pegs with a 150-grit sanding disc

Sanding the pegs down is a lot slower than cutting, but none of the pegs break, so I'm probably better off overall.

Figure 36 - Finishing sanding the pegs level with the bowl surface

With the pegs done, I sand the bowl thoroughly on the inside and out, down to 1000-grit paper. Then I reverse the bowl onto a very large faceplate I made, and do the final shaping on the very bottom of the bowl.

Figure 37 - Final clean up on the bowl bottom

I use a wiping varnish (made by diluting regular varnish 50-50 with paint thinner) on my bowls. It usually takes four or five coats.

Figure 38 - The first coat of wiping varnish

Figure 39 - This bowl took four coats

The last operation is to buff a coat of Carnuba Wax on the bowl.

Figure 40 - Buffing

This bowl turned out quite nice. The spiral pattern was fairly easy to lay out and peg.

The bowl is going back to the person who gave me the cherry logs, in the hopes of getting more wood in the future.

Figure 41 - The completed bowl


If you have any questions you can email Rick at [email protected]

Return to The Highland Woodturner front page

Sours: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturning/woodturning-a-peg-decorated-bowl.html

Top 35 Creative Decorating DIYs Can Make With Clothespins

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Wooden clothes pegs have a variety of other crafty uses, not only for hanging the wash. They can be used for a variety of cute and creative stuff, such as clothespin photo frame, reindeer ornament,placecard holder, clothespin mirror and so on. Most of these wooden pegs crafts are cheap and easy to make.

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Written by: Jonathan

On September 27, 2013



Sours: https://www.woohome.com/diy-2/top-35-creative-decorating-diys-can-make-with-clothespins
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Decorated peg and binder clips DIY craft tutorial by Hazel Fisher CreationsAfter decorating my pencils, I thought I would continue with the pretty stationery theme and decorate some pegs and binder clips too!  I use these all the time - to hang things on the line above my desk, organise papers and keep hold of notes.

For this project I used the following materials:
wooden clothes pegs
binder clips
washi tape
small pieces of scrapbooking papers
Mod Podge (matte)
craft knife and ruler
Decorated peg and binder clips DIY craft tutorial by Hazel Fisher CreationsA really quick way to decorate the wooden pegs is to use washi tape.  The tape is slightly wider than the pegs though and I found that it didn't stick so well down the sides of the pegs. You could either trim away the excess tape with a craft knife or use a little Mod Podge (or pva glue) to help it stick (which is what I did).

My favourite way to decorate wooden pegs though is with patterned scrapbooking paper as I think this gives a neater finish...
First measure the width of your peg and cut a strip of paper to size with a craft knife and ruler.
Next, measure and cut two pieces from your strip - for the top and bottom sections of the peg either side of the wire.
Glue these to your peg with Mod Podge and brush on a top coat of Mod Podge to seal.
Once this is dry you can repeat for the other side of the peg.
Decorated peg and binder clips DIY craft tutorial by Hazel Fisher Creations
For the binder clips I just cut pieces of washi tape to cover the backs of the clips...

Decorated peg and binder clips DIY craft tutorial by Hazel Fisher Creations
I hope that you enjoyed this project and have been inspired to decorate your own stationery!  I would love to see what you make - use #myhfcmakeswhen you share photos of your projects!
Sours: https://hazelfishercreations.blogspot.com/2016/09/diy-decorated-pegs-and-binder-clips.html
How To Make Decorative Pegboard Wall // The Poor Man's Guide

Today he stayed a little late in the gym, and when he arrived home, Catherine and Xenia were not yet there. He made himself a sandwich. He turned on the TV, sat down on the sofa and began to chop. Finally I heard the sound of a car. Driving up.

Pegs decorated

" Of course, I did not offer to "go to the rooms". Just drink coffee together. There were no cafes within walking distance then in Ensk, and indeed there were none.

DIY ✄ 3 Ways to Decorate Clothespins!

Leading her hair from her abdomen to her hips and back, lingering for a few seconds at the penis to kiss the head, the blonde at the same time ran her. Index finger along Linda's crotch, irritating her clitoris, while the other she did the same with hers. John Hammer, coming up from behind and wetting his penis with saliva, parted the blonde's buttocks and with a slight movement of the pelvis introduced his penis into the partner's anus.

The same, without throwing the member of the policeman, went from kissing to sucking him, and Linda, sitting on the face of Hendrix senior, offered him her vagina. Hendrix felt Linda's vagina ooze fluid.

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Ella got to her new ears, DD got hold of a new woman - this is how you can briefly announce that night. And then he said that he knew everything, but he didn't care, because I was completely different, and he had never met. Such a thing. And she, a bitch such, declares in front of everyone that my cold passed too quickly, and grins so venomously, viper.

We laughed like mad, and offended Mitka said that he would go drowning in the sea.



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