John deere 24v

John deere 24v DEFAULT

New Starter for John Deere Marine Ag & Industrial Excavators 24V 11T - 18458N

WAI ECO Reman 18458R
WAI New 18458N
WAI Old 2-3778-ND
ACE Zorkos CM18458N
Alanko 10438842, 11438842
All States 119067
Alltech 126-18458
American Power Systems APS18458
Andre Niermann 016572
Armature G Roy 18458
Atelier Dynamo S190-6055
Bepco 80-18458
Denso 228000-7010, 228000-7011, 228000-7012
DuBois 18458
EGI S-18458
Elpar Industries 0128036179A
Farcom 105195
John Deere RE500199, RE500345, SE501407, TY24444
Lester 18458
MES - Marine Electric Suppliers S5733M
Metro Auto Industrial 184581
Minnpar 57-5384
Mondial 70-906-550
Mondial New 70-906-550N
Nastra 18458
Our Part Number 18458N, 18458R
Part # 18458
PASCO S-10006055
Power Select 18458N, 18458R
Powerite Automotive 18458
Quality Rebuilders 18458
Raw Power 18458N, 18458R
Road Warrior 18458N, 18458R
Rotex 18458
Stratoline 80-18458
Suncoast 18458
Techno CVC IND-2867010, IND-2867011
TSA 18458N
UCP Remanufactured 18458
Wood Auto Supplies STR70146
Zorko 18458

228000-7012 228000-6570 RE500199 RE500345 RE7047
RE70961 SE501407 SE502077 TY24444
RE70961 SE501407 SE502077 TY24444 18458N
used on All John Deere 4039DFM All John Deere 4045TFM

  • W-18458N
  • W-18458N
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  • 10.0 lbs.
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John Deere 24 Volt Electrical Systems on Electric Start 70, 720, 730,
820 and 830 Diesels

A bit of a background to this info: We purchased a Model 70 Diesel
with pony start. We had to overhaul the main diesel engine and decided
to put an electrical start on the tractor at that time. We purchased an
electric starting system from a junked 730. Everything bolted up fine,
we did need to remove the divider in the battery box on the 70, and
replace the generator bracket along with make a holder plate for the

The problem came in when we tried to find accurate knowledge on
wiring and how the electrical system worked. We interviewed a number
of persons who all claimed they "understood" the 24 volt system. Every
time we tried their way, the batteries would drain or there would be some

After months of piecing together info we finally found a man who they
said had been born on a John Deere tractor. His name was Clyde Henry
who had been a serviceman and salesman for an older John Deere dealer.
(Sichi Farm Supply in 84 Pa.)

Clyde filled in the pieces of the puzzle for us and using the info below
we have had almost no problems with the system, other than the normal
battery replacement.

We later purchased a 720 Diesel that came with electric start. It worked
fine, but wasn't wired to our diagram below. We re-wired the system to
our specs and it worked trouble free for years until we sold the tractor.

> That said....what we have put together below is what has worked for us.
That also doesn't mean we are experts or that ours is the only way, but
the info you find here will go a long way in helping explain the ins and outs
of the JohnDeere 24 volt electrical system.

The 24 Volt Electrical System

The electrical system used on John Deere diesel tractors with
electric start is a 24 volt split load system.

Basically there are 3 separate electrical systems within the one main system.

1. 24 volt starting system
2. 12 volt system controlling one side of the tractor
3. 12 volt system controlling the opposite side of the tractor

Take one 12 volt system off the tractor and what is left is a typical 12 volt system.

With this system the difference is the generator brushes are both connected to
the regulator instead of grounding one. The field circuit wire is connected inside
the generator to A 1 terminal. It is the job of the regulator to not only control
voltage or current output, prevent current backflow, but to separate and
distribute the correct amperage to each side of the system.

The 24 volt system must, at all times, have each component isolated from ground!

The return circuit is carried back to the battery by wires instead of
through the frame. The 12 volt system returns voltage through
the frame. Every individual part of the starting motor,
generator, and solenoid is insulated from being
grounded. Brushes, brush holders, field coils, armatures, etc,
are all isolated and insulated from touching ground.

Any ground within the 24 volt system will cause current to
drain from the batteries.

Again: the Entire cranking and charging circuit is carried by
wires...No part of it is grounded to the tractor frame.

Voltage from Battery A controls left hand or flywheel side of tractor.

Voltage from Battery B controls right hand side.

The secret to maintaining equal battery strength is to balance the
amperage draw so they are pretty much equal from both batteries. The
50 ohm resistors are provided on the ignition switch to guard against
a sudden surge of voltage or in the event 24 volts should ever arise at that point.

Batteries are hooked in series with a 14 gauge wire connected to the
positive post of Battery A, through a 20 amp fuse, then grounded on
the battery box and to tractor frame. This fuse (not original J.D. wiring)
serves as an additional protection of 12 volt components.

An additional protection that we used is the addition of a master
disconnect switch located in series between Battery A negative post
and the solenoid BAT post. This prevents battery drain or accidental


Hooking the negative post from Battery B and the positive post from
Battery A to two separate frame grounds (as was original J.D. wiring on
the 4010 and some 4020 series) provides little if any safety
factor as has been evidenced by many owners of 4010's and 4020's
who found their tractors suddenly catching fire. As a side note,
many owners of these tractors have also found them to have
somehow been able to start themselves.

In the middle of the 4020 series, Deere returned to hooking the
batteries in series with a small ground wire.


When the tractor starts and generator begins to produce electricity,
current flows from A 1 (white wire) to Indicator Light. The Indicator
Light is a reverse flow type of switch which causes the bulb to go out
when current flow is reversed.

The current then goes from A 1 to the voltage regulator ARM terminal,
through the regulator, out the Blue wire to BAT A on Ignition Switch,
to load if needed (lights, etc)

If no load, then current will flow on Blue wire from BAT on Regulator
to solenoid and on to Battery A.

If current is needed for both battery re-charge and load, then it will be
split at junction on Regulator BAT terminal and flow as needed.

Current also flows from Generator A 2 (brown wire) to Ignition Switch
Bat B, then to load and to GND on Regulator, then to solenoid
terminal, through shielded ground wire to starting motor post nearest flywheel
then on to charge Battery B.

Generator produces it's own current to increase magnetism in field
coils, controlled by Black wire from Gen F to Regulator F.


Generator output (depending upon state of battery discharge and load)
should be 10 amps. To check:
Disconnect F and A 1 terminals, tape ends to prevent grounding.
Using accurate tachometer, run engine at 1200 rpm.
Connect voltmeter and ammeter in series with carbon pile resistor to
terminals A 1 to A 2.
Connect jumper from F to A 2.
Run engine.
Adjust resistor to obtain 28.5 volts.
Output should be 10 amps.

Re-polarize generator every time any wire in charging circuit is disconnected,
or generator pulley is turned even once with any charging system wire off.

To polarize: Momentarily connect jumper wire from Regulator BAT to
GEN or ARM....Do not touch any grounded surface.


The least understood aspect of the system is that with Ignition Switch
OFF and tractor Not running....the entire system is "Hot".

If measured with a voltmeter, all points will read 12 volts.

If connected across the two solenoid posts there will be a reading of
24 volts.

If connected between any terminal on the charging system and ground,
there will be 12 volts.

The polarity will not always be the same, it will depend upon which battery
controls the circuit being tested. The voltage is always at each terminal,
however it is electrically neutral, or not flowing.

Grounding any function completes the circuit which then causes current to flow.

When a voltmeter is used what actually happens is one lead is
connected to a frame ground. The electrons in the circuitry then have
a path to flow and current will go from terminal, through meter, to
ground...actually completing the circuit.

However this does not mean the component being tested will operate.
Specifically using any component, say the lights....completes
the circuit to ground and the lights come on.

The Ignition Switch is a combination switch. It is really two switches
in one switch and operated by a single lever. One half the switch controls
current to 1/2 the load (one battery), the other half of the switch controls
current to the remaining battery.

Instead of using the traditional 4, 6 volt batttery hookup that was
factory, we used two 12 volt batteries.


These 12 volt batteries MUST be a Minimum of 1000 CCA!

Trouble Shooting

Regulator cover is Hot at all careful when working around
the regulator.

* A quick check of the starting motor for ground is to disconnect Bat B terminal,
place an ohm meter on starter post nearest flywheel and on tractor frame.
There should be NO reading.

* On the 24 volt system, the solenoid return wire between the solenoid return
terminal and the + terminal on the starting motor is in the hold - in winding circuit.
A bad battery connection will melt the battery post or connection and open
the circuit. An open circuit here would cause the solenoid switch to engage
and then immediately disengage and continue as long as the starting button
is held in. Other possible causes could be a bad battery connection or low battery.

* If water is added to the batteries too frequently voltage regulator setting is too high.
If added to only one battery, there is an unbalanced load or too many amps
being drawn from the battery using more water. Temporary correction can be
made by switching batteries or adding a second outlet socket with a 32
candlepower bulb.

Poor connections are a main source of problems!
All connections absolutely must be kept clean, bright and tight.

* Excessive resistance in the charging circuit results in under charged batteries.
To check: connect ammeter between battery terminal of regulator and the
blue lead removed. Connect jumper lead between generator F and A 2.
Do not touch jumper to any ground, it will reverse polarity.

Turn off all accessories, run engine to produce charge rate of 10 amps. Do
not exceed.

Measure voltage between

1. Generator armature terminal F to a pin connector in negative battery post
0.8 volt max.

2. A 2 to regulator GND 0.1 volt max

3. A 2 to positive terminal of right side battery 0.5 volt max

4. From ground post on left side battery to ground post on right battery 0.1 volt max

5. Disconnect jumper and turn on lights, run engine, obtain 10 amps reading
from generator F to regulator F should not exceed 0.05 volts.

If higher readings are obtained there is high resistance in the circuit. If voltage drop
is under max, connect regulator lead and re-polarize generator.

* Abnormal fluctuation of the ammeter while testing the charging circuit indicates
oxidized regulator points. To test: disconnect blue wire from BAT terminal on regulator
and connect ammeter in series. Start engine, turn on lights, adjust speed until
ammeter reads 8 amps (if battery is charged, it may need to discharge first),
connect jumper wire to generator F and A 2. If ammeter increases more than 2
amps, regulator points are oxidized.

* In the regulator cutout relay, closing range is 24 to 27 volts. Closing voltage
must be 0.5 volt or more below the voltage regulator setting. Setting should be
27.5 to 29.5 at normal operating temperature. The current regulator setting range
is 9.5 to 11.5 amps. If one battery tends to stay lower, set on high side of range.

* To test regulator voltage: disconnect blue wire from BAT terminal.
Make connection: from GND to 7 ohm resistor to BAT terminal.
One side of volt meter on BAT, the other side to GND.

Run engine to operating temperature. Stop and restart engine. At high engine
RPM, volt meter reading should be 27.5 to 29.5 volts. A low voltage regulator
setting will increase the difference in the charged state of batteries.

* Regulator Current: disconnect blue wire to BAT terminal.
Connect an ammeter to the BAT terminal and the other lead to the blue wire.
Connect a volt meter to the BAT terminal and the other lead to GND.

Start engine several times. Run engine at high RPM and turn on lights.
With volt meter reading approximately 1 volt below voltage regulator setting,
ammeter should read 9.5 to 11.5 amps.

* High Resistance Tests:

Pull throttle all the way to rear past stop.
Operate starter and compare readings with below:

G to F 0.2 volt max
B to C 0.2 volt max
C to E 0.2 volt max
A to H 0.1 volt max
C to D 0.1 volt max

Voltage readings that exceed these indicate defective wires or bad connections.

A = right side battery, postive post
B = right side battery, negative post
C = solenoid post nearest front of tractor
D = BAT terminal regulator
E = Solenoid post nearest rear of tractor
F = Post on starter motor connected to battery

* The regulator cutout relay can be adjusted for air gap and point opening.

Airgap: move relay armature toward core until points just close.
Insert feeler gauge (0.017) between armature and core. Raise or lower as

required making sure points are aligned

Point Opening: Bend armature stop until point opening can be measured
with a 0.032 feeler gauge.

* Voltage and current regulators can only be adjusted for air gap. Push
armature down until points just make contact. Measure gap and adjust as follows:

1119219C, 1119282C, 1119282D, 1119135D setting is 0.75
1119135E, 1118896E voltage regulator gap is 0.060; current regulator
gap is 0.075


Wiring Diagram

Left Side (flywheel) battery is A
Right side (clutch pulley) battery is B

Battery A positive post to 20 amp fuse to two separate grounds
Battery A positive post to Battery B negative post.
Battery A negative post to starter solenoid terminal nearest front of tractor.
(It is a good idea to connect a master cut out switch in this wire and shut
off master switch after each use)

Battery B positive post to terminal on side of starting motor.

Solenoid post nearest rear side of tractor to post on starting motor terminal
facing the clutch pulley.

   Battery Hookup

Our Wiring Diagram

John Deere's Original Wiring Diagram

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Dave Cole
Choose To Prosper LLC.
Copyright �

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DELCO 1113135, 1113147, 1113148, 1113190, 12301359
JOHN DEERE AR11138, AR28053, AR40134, TY1470, TY2666, TY6622, TY6703

As a parts distributor we mostly sell aftermarket parts (any OEM parts would be noted as such). Aftermarket parts are not sourced from the original vehicle or equipment manufacturer, but are designed to function the same as - if not better than - the original. All parts sold are new.

WARNING - This product may expose you to chemicals such as Lead, Carbon Black, Silica, Crystalline which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to






4yr old drift on 24v john deere tractor

Introduction: John Deere 3020 24v to 12v Conversion

I am going to start off this instructable with a story on why I am doing this instructable. While attempting another project and instructable on this tractor I ran into a bit of an issue (will be published later). The tractor would no longer start. I did a bunch of trouble shooting and found the culprits to be a battery cut off switch that was added and the starter solenoid. I was advised that I should convert the 24v system to a 12v system as it would be cheaperandeasier in the long run. This particular year of tractor was the last year that John Deere put the 24v system on a 3020 and apparently it can be pretty troublesome with battery drainage caused by the starter etc. I did not heed this suggestion and attempted to fix the issue and keep the tractor original with 24v.

So I ordered a new switch and solenoid, put it in and what do you know the tractor started great. Better than ever actually. Previously when the tractor died I noticed that the starter solenoid was VERY hot, to the point of melting its own plastic. So while the tractor was running I was constantly feeling the solenoid. Nothing was getting hot so I was good to go, or so I thought. I turn off the tractor and hear some popping and fizzing and get that familiar smell of electrical smoke. Ok maybe I have fried an electronic component or two in the past but I know that smell. I search all over the starter area and don't see anything smoking or burning. Then I see smoke rising from the other side, I run over and the generator is absolutely smoking. I immediately cut off the power at the switches and waited for the smoke to stop, the popping did but the smoke didn't. So I grab my fire extinguisher and shoot it directly into the generator. After a minute the smoking subsides.

Alright, time to get another voltage regulator and generator I thought. It's a new to me used tractor, I want to keep it original so lets see what they cost. Holy guacamole batman those things are expensive. I could change over the entire system for what they wanted for just the generator and have all new parts and not have to worry about it. So I began searching for the parts or a kit to switch it over.

Step 1: The 24v Theory of Operation.

Before we get into a bill of materials and the process I want to talk a minute about how the JD 24v system was supposed to work or at least what I understand of it.

In a way the system is 12v positive ground and negative ground with an isolated 24v starting/charging system.

Half of the accessories are 12v positive ground, the other half is 12v negative ground. It depends on which side of the tractor they are hooked up on. This basically separates the two halves into the two different batteries in order to balance the load on the different batteries.

The starting and charging portion of the tractor is 24v and is isolated from the accessories of the tractor. Apparently there has been a history of copper dust building up in the starter brushes and slowly draining and eventually killing one or both of the batteries. Quite a few people have put in a battery disconnect switch to help alleviate this issue, although it doesn't really solve the problem.


The cost of maintaining the 24v system is pretty hefty. The starter costs in excess of $500, the generator is in excess of $500, the regulator is somewhere around $150 and the batteries are $150 each, and that is minimum prices that I found for decent parts. At John Deere you are looking at around $2000 for the components. I can switch over the 24v system to a 12v system between $400 and $800 for all of the components, and if I wanted to eliminate one of the batteries I could. Then maintenance costs are cut way down, if my alternator goes out I can go down to the local car parts store and find a replacement for about $100. The same goes with the starter could find a local replacement between $250 and $330 depending upon the brand. .


Before we get into this I want to put out a few warnings here.

  1. Working with electricity is DANGEROUS to both you and your tractor, if you are not familiar with or even the slightest bit leery of your capabilities, STOP, find a professional. This instructable is meant to be a guide to those that are familiar with this kind of thing and I will not be liable for any damages to you, your helpers, your equipment or tools from improper knowledge or usage.
  2. Some other parts of your tractor may need to be rewired in order to work, I cannot predict extra accessories on your tractor and how they are wired. Make sure to check everything.
  3. Other components of your tractor will NO LONGER WORK AS DESIGNED. For example; the generator light. It will not work with this conversion. Instead it is recommended to install a voltage gauge in its place. Another example is your Fuel gauge will need to be replaced if you want it to work.

If you understand these warnings please continue. Now that we have that out of the way we can get to the conversion.

Step 3: Purchase the Materials for the 12v Conversion.

There are quite a few sources of a 12v conversion kit. They range in price from $330 to $900 plus shipping.

  1. In my research and talking with others that have worked on these for decades, the best kits are the ones that come with Nippondenso starters. They last the longest and are also the more expensive kits. The part number on this kit is A-TS-8000 and is available from multiple sources such as John Deere, A&I Products and a few others. Be careful though there are people that list the same part number that are selling a cheaper version of the kit that does not contain a Nippondenso starter. The cheapest price I found on this kit was at Tired Iron Tractor parts for $670, available HERE. I would contact them to ensure it has the Nippondenso starter if that is what you want. Note that this kit comes with the Starter, Alternator, Alternator bracket, wires, a solenoid but no voltage gauge.
  2. Rare Electrical has a kit available and is the cheapest kit at $340 and free shipping. In talking with them their kits are comprised with starters and alternators by Arrowhead electrical products. The kit consists of the Starter, Alternator, Alternator bracket, wires, a solenoid and a voltage gauge. This is available HERE. As a side note on this the part number on this matches the next manufacturer noted below but the rep said they don't purchase that kit they make the kit in house from available parts. This is the option I chose and after receiving the kit it was not what the person I spoke to had described based on my questions. It was a gear reduction starter vs direct drive and the nose cone of the starter was aluminum. I am continuing with this kit because I want to be a test subject and see just how long it lasts.
  3. Atlantic Quality Products make another kit, part number AKT0017. I called and talked with them and they state that the starter brand should be a Bosch. This kit comes with the same items as above and looks pretty much the same. There are a few sources for this exact kit as well but the best price I found on it was at Yesterdays Tractors, HERE. Note that this is one company listing the TS-8000 part number even though it is not, in speaking with the support rep it is the one from Atlantic Quality Products.

Those are just three kits that are available that I was looking into, whatever you do make sure to call the company and talk with them on the parts to check the brand of starter and make sure the starter nose cone is not aluminum. You want cast steel for the nose cone.

The other option is to source the parts locally but I had a hard time finding individual part numbers from the manufacturers to be able to do this.

As for me I chose option 2 because its cheaper and thought it might have been the same as option 3 and would come with a Bosch starter but it wasn't.Please remember that cheaper is not always cheaper, I chose the cheaper option due to budget constraints but it is not the best option. Basically my thinking is if it lasts me a year or two then I can upgrade to the better starter.

Step 4: Disconnect and Remove Your Batteries.

The John Deere 3020 24v system contains two batteries.

First you need to disconnect and remove both batteries.

  1. Start by disconnecting the cable from the NEGATIVE post on the left side of the tractor.
  2. Mark the battery cable you just removed as NEGATIVE with green tape or a label maker.
  3. Disconnect Positive Cable on left side of tractor
  4. Again Mark the cable with RED tape or a label maker
  5. Then Disconnect the Negative post on the RIGHT side of the tractor.
  6. Again mark the negative post you just removed as Negative with green tape or a label maker.
  7. Then disconnect the positive cable from right side of the tractor. Again making sure to label it with RED tape or a label maker.
  8. Remove the batteries.
  9. It is best to set the batteries on a piece of wood or rubber. This will prevent the possibility of the batteries draining while sitting.

I try to keep the batteries on the side they came off of so either label the batteries or remember where you set them.

Step 5: Remove the Hood for Ease of Work.

This step is optional, but it does help for working space We are going to remove the hood so that we can get to the existing voltage regulator easier.

First we need to remove the dash cowl by removing the 5 bolts and pulling it off then setting it to the side.

Now we need to remove the hood.

  1. Remove the air pre cleaner
  2. Remove the fuel tank cap. Be careful not to get any crud into the fuel tank.
  3. Remove the Radiator cap. Again try not to get anything into the radiator.
  4. Remove the rubber around the air intake pipe.
  5. Remove two bolts on rear of hood near cab with a 9/16" wrench.
  6. Pull out and up on the front mesh grate assemblies and set them out of the way.
  7. There is a hood latch on each side turn these outward to release the hood.
  8. With a helper lift the hood up over the top of the air cleaner pipe and the exhaust pipe. (Note in my video I removed the hood by myself, don't do this, its heavy and you could injure yourself)
  9. Set the hood off to the side.

Step 6: Remove Existing Generator and Bracket.

Now we need to remove the existing generator and bracket.

  1. Disconnect all of the wires from the Generator, there should be three wires
  2. There are three bolts on the generator. Remove the bottom two first then the top. Warning the Generator is pretty heavy, Have a hand on it when you take the last bolt out so it doesn't fall.
  3. When you remove the generator a shroud should also come off with it, set this off to the side.
  4. There are two bolts on the generator mounting bracket attached to the engine block. Remove both of these bolts and put them in a safe place. Set the generator bracket to the side, you wont need it again for this but if you ever want to change it back to a 24v system you want to keep it.

Step 7: Install the New Braket and Alternator.

The kit I purchased came with a new alternator bracket. The first thing we need to do is install this.

  1. Position the new alternator bracket with the alternator mounting portion to the front of the tractor and install the bolts loose to allow for adjustment.

You will need to temporarily install the alternator to check the alignment of the pulleys. The bottom of the alternator has a long hole or tunnel on it. This is the hole that needs to go onto the bracket. The bracket came with numerous washers. In my experience all of the washers needed to go to the back of the bracket between the alternator and the bracket. Basically just put the bolt through it and look at the alignment of the pulleys. If it does not align as mine did not you may have to use the old pulley off of the old generator. Removing pulleys is generally not a fun task and will require special tools in order to prevent damage to the pulley and/or the generator alternator. So you have two options, purchase the tools you need to make the swap, or you may be able to take it down to a local automotive repair shop and ask them to swap them for you. At this point I broke out my special tools, removed the pulley from the alternator and the generator and switched them. You do not want the pulleys to be out of alignment, if they are too far out of line it will cause premature failure of your belt. Once you verify alignment tighten the new alternator bracket before you install the alternator, the bolts will be hard to get to later.

Now that we have everything proper let's bolt up the new alternator.

  1. Again checking alignment and using the washers provided put the alternator on and slide the bottom bolt through. This time go ahead and put the nut on it, but don't tighten it.
  2. Rotate the Alternator up so that it is far enough in to get the belt on it. Note that you may have to push the tension bracket out of the way to rotate it up.
  3. Put the belt onto the pulley and make sure the belt is on all pulleys. Again check alignment.
  4. Install the bolt first through the tensioner bracket and into the threaded hole on the alternator. Dont tighten the bolt all the way.
  5. Go ahead and tighten the bottom bolt at this time.
  6. Using a pry bar, pry out on the alternator to create more tension on the belt.
  7. Once you are good with the tension go ahead and tighten that top bolt.
  8. Check the belt tension again, this process may take a few tries.

Your new alternator is now installed. We will come back to the wiring later.

Step 8: Remove the Old Starter and Solenoid and Install the New One.

We need to remove the old starter. Fair warning that the bolts on this starter are difficult to get to. The easiest way that I found to be able to reach everything is to first remove the solenoid from the starter. You don't have to do this if you think you can reach your hand or wrench back to the rear bolt of the starter.

  1. Remove all of the wires from the solenoid. There should be a yellow wire, two browns, two blues and your main power.
  2. Also remove the strap going from the starter to the bottom post of the solenoid.
  3. Remove the 4 bolts on the starter solenoid. I found that a swivel adapter or swivel socket works the best to get to the ones on the rear.
  4. Remove the solenoid and set it off to the side.

Now we can start to remove the starter.

  1. Remove the main negative line from the starter. At this point there should be no more wires attached to the starter.
  2. I found that I needed to remove the rear fuel filter to allow clearance for removal of the starter. WARNING Diesel fuel will spill out when you loosen this. Its best to find a way to prop the filter up in order to conserve the fuel in the filter.
  3. Remove the three bolts going to the starter.

Now we need to install the new starter. Installation is almost the same as removal but we are not going to take off the solenoid. Again the rear bolts will be difficult, take your time and try not to curse too much. The starter that came in my kit made access to the rear bolt a little easier with a socket wrench and an extension.

  1. Align the starter into the cavity it came from.
  2. Make sure the starter seats all the way in
  3. Install the three bolts into the starter
  4. TAA-DAAAAA its installed.

Again we will come back to the wiring in a few steps.

Step 9: Find a Place and Install the Secondary Solenoid.

I did a lot of what if thinking here. What if I have to pull the side cover, what if it gets hot, what if it gets wet etc. So I looked around a bit to find the best place in my opinion to install the starter solenoid. In my case I chose to put it on the panel under the steering wheel on the inside where the key switch is. Where you choose to put it is up to you, but you may have to drill a few holes so keep that in mind.

To install where I did:

  1. There is only one bolt holding that panel on. Remove it and set it to the side.
  2. Find the best place for install. Please see the images or video for my location.
  3. Set the solenoid on the panel and mark the mounting hole centers.
  4. Drill the holes out and using two bolts mount the solenoid.

Do not reinstall the panel as we now have to wire this thing up.

Step 10: Connect the Wires to the Secondary Solenoid and the Starter Wiring.

Now that we have the alternator connected we need to connect the wires to the secondary starter solenoid.

Since we installed the secondary solenoid a little further than the wires provided in the kit we made new wires to connect it.

Connecting the secondary solenoid.

  1. The yellow wire that originally went to the starter needs to go to this solenoid on the terminal marked "S". You may have to run a wire from the starter area back up to the solenoid to reach.
  2. Attach one of the red wires to the right side of the solenoid
    1. The other end of this wire needs to be attached to the top terminal of the new starter solenoid.
  3. Attach the other red wire to the left side of the secondary solenoid.
    1. The other end of this wire needs to go to the left small solenoid on the starter.

Now we will hook up the main battery cables to the starter. When we first started this I had you mark the cables on the battery end to note where they went. There should be two large battery cables coming from the battery boxes to the starter area. Previously one of these was negative and one was positive. Now they will both be Positive.

  1. Both of the battery cable wires near the starter should be connected to the top post of the starter.
  2. The brown and blue wires that are near the starter should also be connected to the top starter solenoid terminal. Please note you will probably need to put a new ring terminal to fit the terminal. OR you could make a jumper terminal wire like I did.

The starter and the secondary solenoid are now wired and ready to go.

See the wire schematic images of the previous 24v system

Vs the new 12v system

Step 11: Let's Hook Up the Alternator Wires.

I was originally going to put all the wiring in one step but I think that it is best that we break it down.

Lets go back over to the alternator side of the tractor. Right above the alternator is the voltage regulator. Connected to the voltage regulator is a wiring harness with three wires. While the colors can vary mine were brown, blue and black (could be pink).

  1. Remove these wires off of the regulator.
  2. You may need to add wire but we want to combine the blue and the brown wires onto a new terminal.
  3. Cut the old terminals off and combine all of them into one terminal if you need to add wire.
  4. You may be able to use the existing terminals and put them on the alternator as is.
  5. Attach the brown and blue wires to the battery terminal of the alternator.
  6. That is the only connection needed. The remaining wires can be capped or taped off and tied up.

See the before and after diagram of the voltage regulator - generator vs the alternator. You can choose to remove the regulator or leave it in but disconnected.

Please see the image of the 24v system with the generator and voltage regulator below.

vs. The new 12v system below.

Step 12: Installing the New Negative Battery Cables and the Batteries.

Now we need to install the negative battery cables. You have the choice of removing the old wire or just tying it out of the way. This wire would be the one that connected the two batteries together so you might need to pull off the floorboard to get this wire out.

  1. On each side find an existing bolt near the battery area that has a clean surface. If it's not clean, clean it. We need to make good contact here. I chose the bolt that holds the bracket holding the floorboard of the tractor. Again if it is not clean it is best to clean it, clear the paint from it, scuff it up a little bit and you should be good.
  2. Now install the right side battery, ensuring that you connect the wire going to the starter to the positive side of the battery. REMEMBER your left side positive battery cable now is connected with this one. Which means there is voltage on it. Ensure that it is not touching any metal.
  3. Install the left side battery again ensuring that you connect the wire going to the starter to the positive side of the battery.
  4. Ensure all of your switches are in the OFF position
  5. Now connect the new ground cables to each battery.

Step 13: Wiring Comparison.

Let's double check your connections. The first image is the entire wiring of the 24v system. The second image is the 12v system. Please ensure your wiring looks like the second picture.

Step 14: Lets Get Ready to Start Your Engines

At this point everything is hooked up now we need to see if this thing will start. Turn on your Key, press in the clutch (otherwise known as an inching pedal) and press the starter button. If everything is correct it should start right up.

Step 15: Thank You.

Thank you for watching, this instructable took several days of work on the tractor largely due to the alternator pulley and the weather, along with an entire day and a half of video editing, and another day to make the diagrams. I hope you enjoy it or at least somebody finds it useful.

Special thanks to the guys over at Yesterday's Tractors Forum for answering questions for me along the way. Keep watching for my next instructable on this tractor for moving the loader hydraulics off of the rear ports as well.

Thank you again!

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